Jotunheimen

2004, 13 days

I didn't use any guide books or printed maps for this trip. It was all designed from web pages.

Links: [DNT] [JS-Map] [Better map] [Himalayan Kingdoms brochure] [Useful German site] [DNT brochure] [Another DNT brochure] [DNT Travel Planner] [NRI] [Ruteinfo] [Rutebok]

JotunheimenThe view from Gjendesheim towards Memerubu (July 2004)
Date Daytime Overnight Notes/Alternatives
Tue 20/7 07:00 Mike, Pete, and Kevin depart Manchester on BA7901 arrives Oslo 10:20. Train (25 mins, kr 140 = £11.20) to city centre – possibly a taxi might be cheaper? Andy has made his own travel arrangements to Oslo. See the sights of Oslo (Kevin's ideas: Frogner Park, featuring the life's work of sculptor Gustav Vigeland). Oslo city-centre hotel (Kevin's ideas: Rainbow chain, Hotel Munch). Cheaper flight at 16:55 arrives 20:05, £51.20 + return flight.
Wed 21/7 9:05 leave Galleriet bus station on route 22-160, change at Fagernes (arr. 12:10 dep. 12:55), arrive Gjendesheim 14:20. (The timetable, in common with every other timetable I've found, currently doesn't show the second leg of the journey for the summer season, though it is shown for other seasons higher up the same page and on lots of other sites. I've assumed it will be scheduled for summer in due course.) Cost (2003) kr 320 = £25, less 25% mini-group discount. Serviced hut at Gjendesheim (DNT page). Longer but possibly more comfortable/scenic journey on train then bus. 8:07 leave Oslo S station on train [timetable search] arrives Otta 11:33, then bus [timetable shows Easter only, again no summer timetable available but we can always hope] departs 12:25 arrives Gjendesheim 14:15. Cost train kr 489, bus unknown.
Thu 22/7 Walk 7 hours on JS-03a or JS-03b to Glitterheim. Serviced hut at Glitterheim (DNT page).  
Fri 23/7 Walk 7 hours over Glittertind (second highest mountain in Norway, 2469 m) on JS-07 or 5 hours on JS-08 to Spiterstulen. Serviced hut at Spiterstulen.  
Sat 24/7 Weather permitting, ascend Galdhøpiggen (highest mountain in Norway, 2472 m) on JS-34, 6 hours there and back. Another night at Spiterstulen. Could gain a day if necessary by missing this out.
Sun 25/7 Walk 5 hours on JS-28 to Leirvassbu. Serviced hut at Leirvassbu.  
Mon 26/7 Walk 6 hours on JS-65 with guided section over glacier to Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta (quite close to each other). Serviced hut at Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta. Could gain a day if necessary by walking 6 hours on JS-40 from Leirvassbu to Skogadalsbøen.
Tue 27/7 Walk 5 hours on JS-41 to Skogadalsbøen.(07:00 Ann departs Manchester on BA7901 arrives Oslo 10:20.) Serviced hut at Skogadalsbøen (DNT page).  
Wed 28/7 Walk 4-5 hours on JS-38 to Vettismorki. Perhaps visit Vettisfossen, the highest waterfall in northern Europe. Self-service hut at Vettismorki (aka Ingjerdbu DNT page has no dates for 2004!). Featured in Himalayan Kingdoms brochure.  
Thu 29/7 Walk 2½ hours on JS-50b then (part of) JS-50a to Hjelle. Bus to Øvre Årdal or Årdalstangen (timetable currently has no times. If the bus doesn't exist it would take about 2 hours to walk from Hjelle to Øvre Årdal. Total distance from Vettismorki to Øvre Årdal about 17km). Bus route 23-516 from Øvre Årdal (14:40) or Årdalstangen (15:00) to Balestrand, a nice tourist town halfway along the Sognefjorden (17:30). See timetable for later and earlier times. Hotel in Balestrand, e.g. Kvikne's or Kringsjå. See the long list at the bottom of this page.
Fri 30/7 Get up early and catch the 7:55 boat [timetable] along Sognefjorden to Bergen (11:50). Not luxurious but the scenery should be good. Hotel in Bergen. Afternoon boat 16:55 arrives 20:40.
Sat 31/7 Enjoy Bergen.14:10 Andy departs Bergen on SK318 arrives Oslo 15:00 in good time for his 17:15 flight back to London. Hotel in Bergen.  
Sun 1/8 12:35 Mike & Pete depart Bergen on SK314 arrives Oslo 13:25.14:45 Mike & Pete depart Oslo on BA7908 arrives Manchester 16:00.    
Mon 2/8 -
Sat 7/8
Clintons do their own thing.    
Sun 8/8 12:35 Kevin & Ann depart Bergen on SK314 arrives Oslo 13:25.14:45 Kevin & Ann depart Oslo on BA7908 arrives Manchester 16:00.    
       
[This stuff is probably, but not certainly, irrelevant now, so I've kept it in case it comes in handy.] Lots of alternatives from Øvre Årdal or Årdalstangen, depending on what people want to do, and of course we don't all have to do the same thing.
  1. Go straight to Bergen (5½ hours) or Oslo (4½ hours) by bus on Thursday evening.
    • Bus route 22-160 from Årdalstangen (16:25) or Øvre Årdal (16:45) to Oslo (21:55). See timetable for later and earlier time.
    • Bus route 22-450 from Øvre Årdal (14:40) or Årdalstangen (15:00) to Bergen (19:15). See timetable for later and earlier times.
  2. Stay overnight in Øvre Årdal or Årdalstangen – several pensions and hotels to choose from. Best is the Klingenberg Hotell, Årdalstangen at about kr 450 each for a double or kr 600 for a single (£36/£48). I think Øvre Årdal looks marginally more interesting than Årdalstangen but that's not saying much.
    • Go straight to Bergen (5½ hours) or Oslo (4½ hours) by bus on Friday morning.
      • Årdalstangen (9:10) or Øvre Årdal (9:30) to Oslo (13:45); also midday service (see timetable).
      • Øvre Årdal (7:55) or Årdalstangen (8:15) to Bergen (12:40); earlier and later services (see timetable).
    • Go by bus then spectacular train line to Bergen (5½ hours) or Oslo (9 hours) on Friday morning.
      • Bus route 22-450 [timetable] from Øvre Årdal (11:35) or Årdalstangen (11:55) to Flåm (13:15). Train [timetable search] 13:35 arrives Bergen 17:05 (two changes, probably Myrdal and Voss, but the web site won't go past the summary page - I get the impression that the summer timetable hasn't been finalised yet). See timetables for later and earlier times.
      • Bus route 22-450 [timetable] from Øvre Årdal (7:55) or Årdalstangen (8:15) to Flåm (9:40). Train [timetable search] 11:00 arrives Oslo 17:52 (one change, presumably Myrdal). This seems like too long a journey to me.